Walking Bordeaux

Bordeaux, France

This trip was not at all about seeing the city of Bordeaux, but as chance would have it, I had two train layovers there and this afforded me an unexpected chance to see a bit of the city. On the way “in” there was only enough time to go down the street from Gare Saint Jean and admire this church. This afternoon, however, I had more than two hours to play. Time enough to leave my luggage at the station and walk several miles around town. Mostly I wandered along the Garonne river where many folks were out strolling on a Saturday afternoon. As an added "bonus," my walk intersected with a protest march (the Yellow Vests, I think) which was accompanied by a hoard of black protection-clad police. I even had time to buy an interesting pastry as I rushed back to the station. The architecture of the older part of the city is wonderful—the city gate which lies along the river is particularly spectacular. Bordeaux was this trip's unexpected bonus!

Waiting for the bells

Civrac-en-Médoc, France

It's my last morning in Civrac, and as I lay in bed watching the sky begin to lighten, I realized that I was waiting for the bells. Every morning at 7:30am the church bells of Civrac go crazy. The sky grew lighter and lighter and yet, no bells. Finally, I checked my watch and it was 7:42. Then I remembered: the bells peal repeatedly at 7:30am every day--but NOT on Saturday and Sunday!

It's been a wonderful week here in the Médoc; this afternoon I zoom off to Paris and then home across the Atlantic. But I will miss those 7:30 bells--and the others that chime throughout the day. It's been a long time since I've been in such a quiet place. In fact, there's a way in which these bells remind me of the call to prayer in Jordan that would sound out across the quiet landscape of Madaba...

Biking the Gironde

Civrac-en-Medoc, France

Civrac lies in the northern part of the Medoc, just southwest of the Gironde Estuary. The Gironde Estuary is the confluence of two big rivers (the Dordogne and the Garonne) and as makes its way to the sea, the Medoc forms a peninsula bound by the Atlantic on one side and the Gironde on the other. 

Biking in this area is wonderful—totally flat and with many small roads that are virtually without cars. Google Maps (for bikes) does an excellent job picking out the best (and least traveled by car) routes. As one reaches the Gironde, a wide open stretch of water greets you—with more of France on the other side. The serenity and relatively stark winter beauty is lovely...

Menu de jour

Queyrac, France

Restaurant le Saint Roch is dad’s favorite restaurant in the area around Civrac. I got to eat there twice (open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday, 12 noon to 2pm!), and it was great fun. There's something comforting about choosing from the menu du jour, knowing that your whole meal is set, the decisions are simple and there's even a chance to improve ones French vocabulary. Dad and I enjoyed the ambiance, the food, and generally the chance to partake in a type of “lunch culture” that I have never experienced before. Bravo, Myriam and crew!

En le tabac

Begadan, Bordeaux, France

Civrac has not a place of any kind to buy food, prepared or otherwise, but just over the hill to the north lies Begadan. In this marvelous tiny town there is a Epecerie (tabac/presse as well) and to my great joy, Dad showed me that we can get a petite petite dejeuner at this place (pictured here). 

I never thought I could drink coffee without milk, but needs must—and the fresh pain-au-chocolate made the whole world right. 

Once a few necessities were purchased and Loulout (the stunning basset hound) properly admired, we were off: Dad drove home and I enjoyed the mile plus walk home. 

Simple things can be very good.

Adventures in Carrefour

Lesparre-en-Medoc

Today it was off to Carrefour for the second time in four days. We have got the lay of the land by now so today's adventure was quite a bit faster. 

Some highlights include the little blue doo hickey that one must carry around in ones wallet in order to free a shopping cart from the rack. But even more interesting (on the other end of the tech spectrum) are the price "tags" in the store—see image. 

Basically, I have a lot of questions: Can the prices change throughout the day? Are there dips or peaks in pricing at different times of the day? Is the pricing at all related to the number of boxes remaining of a certain item? Could these electronic price tags be hacked? 

Why such interest, you wonder. Perhaps it’s my math brain but ever since I’ve shopped for groceries, I’ve found myself memorizing the prices (though not in a conscious way) as I pick out my items. Time and time again, I find discrepancies between the posted price and what shows up on the receipt. Seeing those electronic price tags threw an element of my world into uncertainty: theoretically at least, the prices COULD change between when I memorize them and when I find myself reviewing the receipt. That would be a game changer—and not in a good way!

The Atlantic beckons!

Soulac-sur-Mer, France

Our destination for the day was the lovely seaside resort town of Soulac-en-Mer. It's a pretty sleepy place this time of year but good for a stroll nonetheless. We toured the church that was rescued from the advancing sand dunes in 1868—Notre Dame-de-la-fin-des-Terres (Our Lady of the End of the Earth). 

Ancient sarcophagi lay outside the church as it was all I could do to restrain myself from testing one out. But fortunately decorum and respect prevailed. Lunch was hard to find but at last we found a restaurant and sat for a while over our food. Thanks, Dad!

Market day

St. Vivien-en-Medoc, Bordeaux, France

Dad and I took a drive to Soulac-sur-mer, stopping in St. Vivien to see the Wednesday farmers market. The guidebook promised a “bustling” market which, I imagine, is more true in the summer, but it was fun to wander around, sample a bit of cheese, admire the vegetables and wonder at the candied hibiscus flowers. Glad we stopped.

Moulin country

Civrac-en-Medoc

Yesterday I first learned that the Medoc was windmill country when we stopped by the house of Dad’s friends, and they had this wonderful windmill ruin in their yard. They also showed me a book of all the historic windmills in the area—of which theirs is one. I next discovered (or re-learned) this fact again today when I set out on my first bike ride in the area: there was wind aplenty as I rode across the flat landscape—which helped me to learn this windmill fact in a much more physical way. I shall not forget it!