Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts

Sunday, April 6, 2025

tourISTANBUL

Istanbul, Turkey

On my way home from eight amazing days in Iraqi Kurdistan, and this morning I got to take advantage of a Turkish Airlines free bus tour. The weather was absolutely amazing (sunny, cold and windy) and just a few hours on the bus reminded me that I/we absolutely must get back to Turkey again. 

Though I am willing to wait until the mayor of Istanbul is not under lock and key.


Thursday, February 26, 2009

Borderland Hell

Turkey-Iraq Border
October 31, 2005

Frank and I have been in Iraqi Kurdistan for nearly a week now--today we took a lovely drive in the countryside and visited a number of old friends.

Last Wednesday (10/26), we flew from Izmir in western Turkey to Diyarbakir in eastern Turkey. From the airport, we left directly for the border as it was already 12 noon. We were more than 20 miles from the border when the line of fuel trucks began. Sometimes in a single line and sometimes in a double line, Turkish fuel trucks lined the right side of the road as far as the eye could see. Frank and I estimated that the line contained somewhere between 2,000-3,000 fuel trucks. We learned that the tanker drivers spend anywhere from 5 to 20 days waiting in this endless queue--sleeping, cooking, playing cards--or just waiting.

As we got nearer to the border, a line of trucks carrying other types of goods began to line the left side of the road, while the fuel trucks continued to line the right side of the road. As we got within 1-2 km of the border, the four-lane highway became impassable. The two lanes on the right were blocked with parked trucks. The far left-hand lane was also filled with parked trucks that were headed TOWARD the border. Trucks were also parked along the shoulders of the road. That left only one lane open for cars (like us) to get to the border AND for cars and trucks to come FROM the border.

We could see through the gaps between vehicles that some cars and trucks had left the highway completely and were driving through the fields. Our driver had to back up until he found a place where he could drive off the highway, and then we, too, began to drive through the fields. When we got near the border, there was no way to break back through the jungle of vehicles (there was no semblance of lines anymore) to get to the customs post. After a few minutes, we saw a Turkish army jeep that was forcing vehicles to move so that it could get to customs. Our driver quickly got behind the jeep and followed it to customs.

Surprisingly, no one stopped us as we entered the Passport/Customs area through an official-looking gate--one that was not meant for use by travelers. The driver handled the paperwork for us, but the Turkish border guard seemed to find some problem with Frank's passport and didn't want to let him leave the country. Just the day before, we had left and re-entered Turkey without any problems when we visited Samos (Greece). This suggests that the problem was with this particular border and NOT Frank's passport.

When we arrived in Kurdistan, we asked a number of people about this near-closure of the border. On and off for more than a year, the Turks have either closed or "squeezed" the border at random intervals. What was the reason for this latest spasm? One of the likeliest explanations appears to be that when President Bush met recently with Masoud Barzani, he addressed him as "President Barzani". President of what? The President of Iraq is Jalal Talibani. During the recent elections here, Masoud Barzani was elected President of the Kurdistan Regional Government.

The Turks are adamant about the fact that there is no such place as Kurdistan. They complained vigorously to the US government about Bush's comment--and coincidentally (?) we found ourselves in the middle of this near stale-mate at the border. This situation is adding to/causing a fuel shortage in Kurdistan. Although there are oil wells here, there are no refineries. Oil has to be sent to Turkey where it is refined--and then shipped back to Kurdistan.

The rest of the trip from the border to Erbil was uneventful, and by now we have been back in "eagle country" for nearly a week. The eagle is the symbol of the KDP (Kuridstan Democratic Party)--which is the predominant party in the northern part of Iraqi Kurdistan.
Besides several pictures from the traffic jam on the Turkish side of the border, I attach two of Frank.

It is wonderful to be back in Kurdistan with our good friends.

greetings from Ruins Central!

Priene, Miletus & Didyma, Turkey
October 25, 2005


Yesterday was the big Ruins Day for Frank and me. Actually, we had a wonderful time despite the fact that we spent the day on a dreaded "tour". Really, it was the only way to see everything we wanted to in one day--and they said "no shopping stops, promise!" (there was one tiny exception to this rule, but we did manage to wriggle out of it...)

Our first stop was the ancient Hellenic city of Priene, built at the base of a giant stony mountain. Picture 1 is of the Athena Temple at Priene. I think this is one of my favorite pictures because the pieces of fallen columns all around remind me of the giant cogs in some ancient (and humongous) factory.



Picture 2 is a remarkably well preserved theater--this one seating only 6,000 people, but the seats still have some lovely stone work.







Next we travelled to Miletus, another of the famous cities of this era (400BC to about 400 AD). The Roman Baths (partially pictured in Pic 3) are the largest in this province in Turkey--can you see the lovely stone lion? (Foryou lovers of "The Narnia Series", the word "aslan" in Turkish means" lion".) This city was not as well preserved as some of the others, but still worth the wander around. More on Miletus: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miletus

Finally, on to the Apollo Temple at Didima, site of great pilgrimages to the Oracle who lived there. This place was spectacular! Picture 4 shows an overview of this enormous place.










Picture 5 shows Frank kindly giving some scale to the enormous columns, most of which only remain only partially intact.


Finally, my favorite picture, which is also from Apollo's Temple. Behind the temple lies this fallen column, a giant of a thing, which reminded me for ALL the world of a giant, giant sausage, cut in thick slices on a cuttingboard. More on Didyma: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Didyma

Today was our day for the Greek Island of Samos, a fairly forgettable experience, and perhaps the subject of another e-mail...but I doubt it.

We are off in the morning for another adventure in another part of the country. Stay tuned.

Ephesus & Market Day

Selçuk & Ephesus, Turkey
October 22, 2005

We are here in the lovely little town of Selçuk, which lies only 3 km from the ancient Roman ruins of Ephesus. We arrived here through a combination of bus, plane, bus, bus and bus. Phew. On the next leg of our journey, we'll try a simpler combination of taxi and airplane.

Today we wandered through the fantastic ruins of Ephesus (approx 500 BC to 600 AD). Pictured below is the amazing library which was built complete with a cooling system to keep the 12,000 scrolls at the right temperature. Also, one of several surviving roads through the city--this one called the Sacred Way. Also at Ephesus is the Great Amphitheater, which could seat 25,000 people. While in days of old it seated the locals for theater performances etc, today it fills daily with groups of (mostly European) tourists, all of whom seem to receive similar performances by guides in all languages (at least based on the hand gestures and antics of the guides).

At left you will see that apparently a "Kate" has been here before to Ephesus...






After walking the 3 km back to Selçuk, we found that it was market day. The produce was truly amazing--radishes the size of your fist, eggplants of all shapes and sizes, figs (fresh and dried), huge quinces--and here is Frank, modelling the biggest cabbage I have ever seen!

Labou (the Turkish Rabbit) lives!‏

Istanbul, Turkey
October 20, 2005

Frank and I arrived in Istanbul two days ago, and we've spent our time so far wandering around this amazing city, sleeping--and, yes, enjoying the company of Labou, the Turkish Rabbit. As some of you are aware, Frank first met Labou two years ago on his way to meet me in Kurdistan. We saw him again last June on our way home to Seattle.

But rabbits don't live forever, you know, so we were prepared for the worst on this trip. Frank was overjoyed, then, to get an e-mail from the hotel staff informing us that "Labou is still with us." (Did I forget to mention that Labou lives in the lobby of the Avropa Hotel in downtown Istanbul?) There are a number of downsides to this particular hotel (it's a bit noisy, there are Ukrainian "dancers" living there--but that's another story--and then there is Casper, the evil carrot-stealing dog) but, rest assured, that Labou's presence more than makes up for it all. Pictures of this wonderful (and ancient--he's 6 years-old) beast are attached for your viewing pleasure.

Today we saw the marvelous Topkapi Palace and some of its many treasures--two pictures of this spectacular place are attached as well as an overlook of Istanbul from the Palace. It was a gorgeous fall day: sunny, cool, bright, occasional showers. A perfect day for fall sightseeing--and lots of tourists, too, to our surprise!

Tomorrow we leave for the Coast and all the ruins of Ephesus, Pergamon, and more. Frank's favorite stuff (besides rabbits): ruins!

Fairy Chimneys

Cappadocia, Turkey
May 29, 2004

Look for the tiny window with a white frame & you'll see the window of our pension...

Throne of the Gods

Nemrut Dagh, Kayseri, Turkey
May 27, 2004

Come see this fantastic place!