After the joys, adventures, and work (!) of wandering in Switzerland and Iceland, it's great to be home to a sparkling clean house (thank you, A!) and the comforts of home. My only regret? That I didn't get a tea towel in Iceland to match the one I found in Switzerland. Good to be away and good to be home!
On our last full day in Iceland, Frank and I finally made it to one of Iceland's famous geothermal pools: Gamla Laugin (The Old Pool) which has been re-branded as the "The Secret Lagoon." It's a far less fancy place than the Blue Lagoon or one of the other geothermal spas and lies just 40 minutes by car from Selfoss. Basically, there's just one big outdoor pool with burbling hot pools along one edge of the place. But you get the feel of the thing and it was a gorgeous afternoon for such an activity. I'd definitely recommend it for something a bit less over-the-top!
Based on a close examination of hundreds of kilometers of the Iceland Ring Road, I don't expect to return to Iceland for a biking adventure any time soon. I need a serious road shoulder, at the very least. However, I noted with envy the dedicated bikes lines throughout Reykjavík. And then, of course, these fantastic less rideable bikes...
Several nights in Selfoss made me examine the map around Selfoss more carefully, and what did I discover? That Selfoss lies only a few kilometers away from Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri--the two towns which figure prominently in the great book I just finished listening to: "Woman, Rebel, Captain" by Margaret Willson. If you're travelling to Iceland (or even if you're not), this is a fascinating portrait of an amazing woman who lived in the late 1700's and early 1800's. Don't miss it!
To begin yesterday's hike, we rode the Moosfluh gondola to the top where I learned that it was engineered to withstand a 10 meter (30 foot!) shift in elevation over the coming years. As the Aletsch Glacier recedes to the north, the mountain ridge next to the glacier is becoming more unstable and starting to shift downwards as the pressure from the glacier lessens (perhaps too simply put), so the Swiss are busy planning ahead. All around the gondola station we could see surveying tripods. But most impressively, this new station was planned to withstand a giant elevation shift. In fact, that part of the ridge shifted down by one meter (3 feet) just last year. These secondary effects of climate change are the kinds of things I had not even imagined. And it's hugely impressive that structures themselves can be engineered to adapt. Wow.
It's one of the joyful and fascinating things about travelling that one discovers that there are completely different ways of doing things in different parts of the world. Today, as I strolled around Bettmersee (a decent-sized artificial lake above Bettmeralp) in the pouring rain, I remembered that today is Tuesday. According to V, that's the day when the fish are put into the lake--for folks with licenses to fish out over the coming week. I suppose that's the way it works in other artificial fishing locations, but something about the idea that "Tuesday is when the fish go into the lake" strikes me as a perfect metaphor for the organization and efficiency that is Switzerland.
But definitely not a good morning to take advantage of the new batch of fish in the lake.
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It's now Day 4 of my Swiss Alps adventure and the rain is now pouring down. BUT the first three days were spent wandering happily between Fischeralp and Riederalp in the sun, clouds, and occasional rain. And on each of those three days, we stopped for "kaffee und kuchen." Sprinkled throughout the area are delightful "hitta" at which one can sit out in the sun and enjoy coffee and cake--or a variety of food/beer etc. So three stops, one on each day, with coffee and cake--in the gorgeous and ever changing weather. Bliss.
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| Blaubeerkuchen |
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| Rüblikuchen |
After a trip up the mountain on the gondola to Moosfluh, we spent another day hiking down and across the mountain to Villa Cassel and then back via Riederalp to Bettmeralp. It was eight miles before we got back to the apartment, and I could hardly walk for all the descending. And what shall we have for a post-hike dinner.? V declared we should try a "rösti," a Swiss version of what I would call a hash brown pancake. With raclette cheese and an egg, of course. A fine "mountain food" way to end a glorious day.
To celebrate a recent birthday, Thomas has made a return to this household. A fantastical creation in frosting, cake, and other decorations...by the birthday girl herself.
Today I attended a workshop south of Seattle which I enjoyed. However, the best part of the whole thing was the fantastic bike ride down to Tukwila on a sunny (but cold) spring morning. And then the ride home. And I am listening to an absolutely FANTASTIC book called "The Covenant of Water" by Abraham Verghese. Not only are the writing and story itself a joy, the audiobook version is read by the author and that is another delight. I absolutely recommend it both for the story and the fascinating history lesson in South Indian history.
More "books on bikes":
Days are getting longer though the weather is still as unpredictable as ever. But peak riding season is coming, and I am excited! Finished two "lite" thrillers in the past week or so--doesn't do much for the brain but the miles fly...oh, and a 3rd which I definitely enjoyed, but not a thriller...
More "books on bikes":
In addition to the many, many restaurants to be found all over this lovely island, one can hardly throw a rock without hitting another "coffee and dessert" cafe, many with stunning views of the ocean. Tried another one today. Coffee was excellent, the cake less so. But it WAS interesting: green tea with red beans. I am so running out of time to try new treats..
It's been a bad few weeks for riding between the weather, flat tires, and other life events. But today I had both the time and the good weather to ride around the entire lake. Wow, did that feel good! And I'm in the final chapters of "Tom Lake" by Ann Patchett. Mom recommended it, and it's fantastic.
More "books on bikes":
After days of rain, freezing temperatures, and not feeling so well, I finally got out today for 30+ miles. Unfortunately, my more ambitious plans were foiled by road work at the Montlake intersection and the closure of the SR-520 the bike lane. But anyhow, there WAS sunshine and NO rain (or ice), and I am grateful. Finished the book below last week--it's an odd one recommended by one of the Economist's writers. Science fiction set in the Los Angeles of 2047 (almost the dawn of the binary millennium) and written in 1990; parts of it were fascinating.
More "books on bikes":