Several nights in Selfoss made me examine the map around Selfoss more carefully, and what did I discover? That Selfoss lies only a few kilometers away from Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri--the two towns which figure prominently in the great book I just finished listening to: "Woman, Rebel, Captain" by Margaret Willson. If you're travelling to Iceland (or even if you're not), this is a fascinating portrait of an amazing woman who lived in the late 1700's and early 1800's. Don't miss it!
To begin yesterday's hike, we rode the Moosfluh gondola to the top where I learned that it was engineered to withstand a 10 meter (30 foot!) shift in elevation over the coming years. As the Aletsch Glacier recedes to the north, the mountain ridge next to the glacier is becoming more unstable and starting to shift downwards as the pressure from the glacier lessens (perhaps too simply put), so the Swiss are busy planning ahead. All around the gondola station we could see surveying tripods. But most impressively, this new station was planned to withstand a giant elevation shift. In fact, that part of the ridge shifted down by one meter (3 feet) just last year. These secondary effects of climate change are the kinds of things I had not even imagined. And it's hugely impressive that structures themselves can be engineered to adapt. Wow.
It's one of the joyful and fascinating things about travelling that one discovers that there are completely different ways of doing things in different parts of the world. Today, as I strolled around Bettmersee (a decent-sized artificial lake above Bettmeralp) in the pouring rain, I remembered that today is Tuesday. According to V, that's the day when the fish are put into the lake--for folks with licenses to fish out over the coming week. I suppose that's the way it works in other artificial fishing locations, but something about the idea that "Tuesday is when the fish go into the lake" strikes me as a perfect metaphor for the organization and efficiency that is Switzerland.
But definitely not a good morning to take advantage of the new batch of fish in the lake.
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| Cremeschnitte |
It's now Day 4 of my Swiss Alps adventure and the rain is now pouring down. BUT the first three days were spent wandering happily between Fischeralp and Riederalp in the sun, clouds, and occasional rain. And on each of those three days, we stopped for "kaffee und kuchen." Sprinkled throughout the area are delightful "hitta" at which one can sit out in the sun and enjoy coffee and cake--or a variety of food/beer etc. So three stops, one on each day, with coffee and cake--in the gorgeous and ever changing weather. Bliss.
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| Blaubeerkuchen |
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| Rüblikuchen |
After a trip up the mountain on the gondola to Moosfluh, we spent another day hiking down and across the mountain to Villa Cassel and then back via Riederalp to Bettmeralp. It was eight miles before we got back to the apartment, and I could hardly walk for all the descending. And what shall we have for a post-hike dinner.? V declared we should try a "rösti," a Swiss version of what I would call a hash brown pancake. With raclette cheese and an egg, of course. A fine "mountain food" way to end a glorious day.
To celebrate a recent birthday, Thomas has made a return to this household. A fantastical creation in frosting, cake, and other decorations...by the birthday girl herself.
Today I attended a workshop south of Seattle which I enjoyed. However, the best part of the whole thing was the fantastic bike ride down to Tukwila on a sunny (but cold) spring morning. And then the ride home. And I am listening to an absolutely FANTASTIC book called "The Covenant of Water" by Abraham Verghese. Not only are the writing and story itself a joy, the audiobook version is read by the author and that is another delight. I absolutely recommend it both for the story and the fascinating history lesson in South Indian history.
More "books on bikes":