January 23, 2004
This afternoon I attended my first Kurdish wedding party. This wedding party was not the actual ceremony but instead a big dance party. The large open room was divided into two areas with chairs facing in opposite directions. Each half of the room had large open spaces for dancing, with rows of chairs surrounding each dance floor. Just like at an orthodox Jewish wedding, the men danced with the men, and the women with the women. I tried some dancing and enjoyed in a great deal. Just as we were really getting going, the electricity went off and plunged us into relative darkness--and killed the music, of course. After a time, the electricity went back on (via generator?) and the dancing resumed. Wow, they have some amazing dresses here...Fridays are our days off here, and today was a pleasant one despite the rain, cold, and fog. We started the day out with a mid–morning walk in the freezing cold. By the time we’d walked down the road and home again (about 35 minutes), my face hurt from the cold. Next, Frank and I took a drive to the Khanzad Hotel which is Erbil’s finest hotel, located ½ way between Erbil and Salahaddin. The CPA (Coalition Provisional Authority) has taken it over and it’s full of American military and civilian officials. We went there to meet with one of Frank’s new colleagues and ended up staying for lunch. The GREAT view of the surrounding countryside from the hotel ALMOST made up for the terrible “western” food. But, hey, it was an excuse to go for a drive…
After the wedding party, we were invited to join some people at their house for dinner. We had a lovely dinner in the darkened house (no electricity until 7pm). There was just enough light from the kerosene heaters and one lantern to see what we were eating. Before dinner, Frank played his first round of Kurdish dominoes with the men and I think his team won by 5 points. We feel so warmly welcomed here.
After the wedding party, we were invited to join some people at their house for dinner. We had a lovely dinner in the darkened house (no electricity until 7pm). There was just enough light from the kerosene heaters and one lantern to see what we were eating. Before dinner, Frank played his first round of Kurdish dominoes with the men and I think his team won by 5 points. We feel so warmly welcomed here.
And, just a few minutes ago, we arrived home in fog so thick I could only see 15 feet ahead of the car. Another week begins in the morning: Saturdays are Mondays here…
